Applies to: All-In Commercial Max models being upgraded from a Gen 1 chiller to a Gen 2 chiller. Technician Note: Use accompanying step-by-step photos and video clips for visual reference.
Tools Required
8mm socket
8mm flex head driver
10mm socket
2.5mm hex driver
Mallet
Weldon 702/704 Glue
Tube Cutters
Flathead screwdriver
Utility knife or snips (for cutting zip ties)
Towels
Warning!!! Be sure to remove the white foam padding attached to the coil condenser before start-up.
Job Checklists
Arrival Checklist
Gen 1 (1.43) Chiller to Gen 2 Chiller Upgrade Checklist
End of Job Checklist
Gen 1 (1.43) Chiller to Gen 2 Chiller Upgrade Prep
Power Down The Plunge
Pause the chiller by pressing the pause button on the UI
⚠️ Powering down the Plunge while it's in a cooling cycle can damage the chiller.
Press the test button on the GFCI outlet to power down the Plunge.
Unplug the GFCI outlet from the outlet.
🚨 Important: Do not power down the Plunge before pausing the chiller.
🚨Close Auto-Doser Ball Valves🚨
Close the two auto-doser ball valves (perpendicular to the piping).
Important note: Not closing the ball valves will cause the auto-doser probe to dry out and need a recalibration.
Drain The Plunge
Remove the right ventilation screen. Opposite of the filter housing.
Locate the main drain manifold at the bottom and remove the cap from the spigot.
Attach a garden hose or inline pump to the spigot
Turn the valve on the spigot and the water should flow out
Turn the valve to close the spigot and install the cap back on.
Gen 1 (1.43) Chiller to Gen 2 Chiller Upgrade Instructions
Remove Chiller Vents and Thumb Nuts
Remove both chiller vent panels.
Unscrew all 5 thumb nuts:
3 from the left chiller vent
2 from the right chiller vent
Note: Bottom-right nut may be an 8mm hex nut—use socket if necessary.
Remove Rear Cover
Slowly pull and wiggle the rear cover out through the vent openings.
Remove Chiller Mounting Nuts
Using a 10mm socket remove the 4 nuts securing the chiller to the base frame:
2 on each side of the chiller base.
Remove E-Box Cover
Use a 2.5mm hex screwdriver to remove the 4 screws securing the e-box cover.
Disconnect Electrical Components
Disconnect Hanna Auto-Doser and LED connectors (press tab and pull from plastic base).
Hanna wires: blue, brown, green/yellow.
Some setups may use a Y-splitter.
Remove the splitter and set aside to install into the new chiller.
Disconnect UI ribbon cable from back of UI (spread wing tabs to release).
Thread the LED wire out through its passthrough hole.
Tip: To free space, disconnect other wires from the hole temporarily and push them aside.
Warning: Never pull wires directly. Use only connectors to disconnect.
Cut Electrical Zip Ties
Cut zip ties securing:
LED wire
Power cord (if tied to the frame)
Disconnect Plumbing Manifolds
Remove the 4 manifolds connecting chiller to tub:
Main Drain – under e-box, connects to lower plumbing
TH-1 – right of water filter housing
Flow Meter – connects from rear of water filter to bottom of heat exchanger
Heat Exchanger to Jet – top of heat exchanger to lower plumbing union
Remove Chiller
Warning: Move slowly. Use 2 people if needed.
Grab handles on both sides of the chiller base.
Carefully lift and walk the unit forward.
Angle the top of the chiller back to clear the e-box from the tub wall.
Remove LED From Tub
Remove the LED from the LED bulkhead by pulling on the wire.
Install LED Into LED Bulkhead
Locate the LED that arrived in the box with the replacement chiller.
Place the LED into the LED bulkhead and press in until it is fully seated.
Install Plumbing Manifolds to Chiller
Install the three plumbing manifolds that come in the box but disconnected from the chiller
Locate the Water Pump to Water Filter Manifold (Large L with no sensors). Screw the union connected to the long flex hose to the outport of the Water pump.
Locate the Filter to Heat Exchanger Manifold (U shaped with 1 sensor and flow meter). Screw the union nearest to the flow meter into the "in" port (top) of the heat exchanger.
Locate the Heat Exchanger to Tub Manifold (Smallest with one sensor). Screw the ab union into the "out" port (bottom) of the heat exchanger.
Install Chiller Into Tub
Tilt the top of the chiller so the e-box can clear the top of the tub.
Walk the base of the chiller to the base of the frame.
Lift and place the chiller onto the frame of the chiller cabinet.
Line up and slide the bolts to the holes in the chiller base.
Remove E-Box Cover
Using a 2.5 mm hex bolt driver remove the 4 bolts securing the E-box cover.
Set aside as they will be needed to secure E-box cover.
Plug LED & Auto-Doser into E-box
Run the connector of the LED through the grommet in the bottom right of the e-box.
Plug the LED into the port labeled LED.
Run the Hannah auto-doser wire connector(s) (there can be two if a splitter was installed on the previous chiller) through the grommet in the bottom right of the e-box.
Install New Water Filter Housing To Tub
Slide the water filter housing into place through the side of the chiller frame.
⚠️ Move slow and ensure you do not hit and damage the copper tubing to the compressor.
Position the replacement water filter housing in the same orientation as the original.
Lower threaded manifold is facing toward the basin of the tub.
Upper threaded manifold is facing toward the condenser fan.
Lift the water filter housing and align it with the threaded post on the tub.
🚨 Ensure the two nodes on top of water filter housing line of with two cutouts where the water filter housing mounts to the tub.
Begin threading the plastic nut onto the post by hand, ensuring it is not cross-threaded.
Once the nut is hand-tight, wrap a towel or rag around a hex bolt driver to protect the plastic.
Place the wrapped driver against one of the nut’s notches and gently tap with a rubber mallet to snug it into place.
Apply light, controlled taps until the nut is fully tightened and the water filter housing is secure.
Ensure the housing is firmly seated and does not move or shift when lightly pushed.
Connect Plumbing to Tub
Reconnect the 4 manifolds from the new chiller to the tub:
Main Drain & Pump Manifold-> Connects to underneath plumbing.
Water Pump to Water Filter Manifold -> Connects to back of water filter
Water Filter to Heat Exchanger -> Connects to side of water filter
Heat Exchanger to Jet → Connects to underneath plumbing
Note: Confirm o-rings are present on the 2 unions connecting to lower plumbing.
🚨 In the event the Heat Exchanger to Jet Manifold and/or the Drain and Pump Manifold does not line up with the underneath plumbing a AB Union replacement will be needed. Go to the next step if this is necessary.🚨
A/B Union Replacement
For the full step by step instructions on how to do an A/B union replacement go to: A/B Union Replacement
Connect Ribbon Cable To UI
Locate the UI ribbon cable coming from the back of the electrical box.
Ensure the red stripe on the ribbon cable is facing down
🚨 If it’s facing up, the UI will not function.
Open the wing tabs on the UI connector to allow for cable insertion.
Insert the ribbon cable into the UI connector until it clicks into place.
Close the wing tabs around the ribbon cable to secure the connection.
Test New Chiller
Follow standard testing protocol:
Fill the tub until the water level is 1/2 inches above "min" line on skimmer. ⚠️ Running the system with low water may damage the pump.
🚨Open the auto-doser ball valves.🚨
⚠️ Running the system with the ball valves closed will damage the chiller.
Plug in the tub and press the Reset button on the GFCI.
Set target temperature to 50°F.
Confirm the blue cooling arrow turns on.
Listen for compressor operation.
Allow the system to run for 10 minutes.
Inspect all plumbing connections for leaks. ⚠️ Keep hands and tools away from the exposed chiller fan.
Confirm no UI error codes
Press the light button on the UI to ensure the light functions properly.
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